Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide lists $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed, about $1,500 to $5,000 for 1,000 square feet, with a $1,000 to $2,000 or more minimum. A rim joist runs about $2,000 to $2,500. We give a written price after measuring.

At HomeGuide's $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot, about $3,000 to $10,000 for 2,000 square feet of surface, depending on open or closed cell and thickness. Square feet of surface sprayed is not the same as the floor area of the house, so we measure.

A 20 by 20 garage with 9-foot walls has about 1,120 square feet of walls and ceiling. At HomeGuide's range that is roughly $1,700 to $5,600, more for thick closed cell, and doors, windows and the ceiling type change it.

For some buyers and inspectors, the worry is foam installed badly: off-ratio foam that smells, foam pulling away from framing, or foam hiding a leaking roof deck. Correctly mixed foam on a dry surface at the right thickness avoids those problems. We record the product type and depth on your paperwork.

Yes. We dense-pack cellulose into the wall cavities through small holes from outside or inside and patch them, so the plaster and the exterior stay as they are.

Bay County is in Climate Zone 5A, where the Department of Energy recommends R-60 for an empty attic or R-49 added over 3 to 4 inches. We seal the attic floor first.

It costs more than other insulation, the house must be empty while it cures, and it is hard to remove later. On a roof deck it can hide a slow leak. We use it where those trade-offs are worth it.

Not normally. Closed walls are filled with dense-pack cellulose through small holes.

HomeGuide advises staying out at least 24 hours while it cures and airs out.

Yes. It follows the uneven stone at the sill and seals the gaps.

Yes. Dense-pack goes in through small holes that are patched.

Not if the outside of the wall is sound. We check gutters, flashing and siding first.

Live knob-and-tube generally needs an electrician before walls are insulated. We will tell you if we see it.

In closed walls it is the practical choice and slows air well; foam needs open walls.

Only if it is wet, contaminated or blocking sealing. Suspect vermiculite gets tested first.

It removes most of the warm air that melts roof snow, which is the main cause.

For an open floor, sealing plus blown-in is usually better value.

R-60 for an empty attic, or R-49 added over 3 to 4 inches, in Zone 5.

If it can be closed, sealing and insulating the walls usually works best. Otherwise we foam the floor.

Two to three inches of closed cell is common, about R-10 to R-21.

A sealed, insulated crawl space or rim keeps the space closer to house temperature.

No. It stops condensation, but leaks need to be fixed first.

About 1,120 square feet of walls and ceiling at 9-foot walls; roughly $1,700 to $5,600 at HomeGuide's range, depending on foam type and thickness.

Yes. Closed-cell foam keeps damp air off the steel.

Yes, with enough foam and sealed doors and eaves.

Yes, though sometimes a framed room inside is the better plan.

Only if it is wet, moldy, contaminated or blocking air sealing.

Usually a day for an attic, then sealing and new insulation.

Yes, and we fix the moisture source before reinsulating.

Have it tested; asbestos-positive material needs a licensed abatement contractor.